Tokaj.Historically, we do not know the exact form of the wine culture at the time of the conquest 1100 years ago at Tokaj-Foothills. We do not have the material proof, but we assume that wine-growing and winemaking at the beginning of the Hungarians' wine culture had a dual origin: Partly western or Latin, and also partly following eastern traditions.
The Hungarians tribes were established at the foothills of Caucasus, where they got to know winemaking. Its most convincing proof is that several basic terms associated with grape and wine culture - for example grape, second wine, wine, gauntry - are of Old-Turkish origin. The established Hungarians probably realized the excellent potential of the Foothills and tried to apply their knowledge there.
From the second part of the XII. century we can speak about wine culture of Foothills, when Walloon settlers arrived in the region. A century later several facts prove the spreading of wine-growing at Foothills. Till the beginning of the XVI. century Foothills did not belong to the big wine-growing regions in Hungary. In the Middle Ages the most famous wine of Hugary was made in Szerémség (today it is Serbia, Small-Yugoslavia), which population escaped and died out during Turkish expansion. For this reason the importance of the wine region was insignificant.
After the Battle of Mohács the wine-growing, and commerce of Szerémség rapidly declined not only here but in other famous regions like Somogy, Tolna. As the importance of southern Hungary declined, the prestige of Tokaj-Foothills rose higher and higher. Partly because it was the only region in Hungary which could be cultivated for aristocracy but it is possible either the wine-growers of Szerémség fled there. In any case it is interesting that we do not know any settlements on the former region of Hungary, which was called Tarcal as one of the most important towns of Foothills. It is Fruska Gora today or the centre of the former wine region of Szerémség.
It is an interesting coincidence, but in both cases we speak about ancient naming so the similarity of names does not prove the settlement elsewhere. However, the Szerelmi or Szerémi vineyard probably preserves the memories of the connection of the two regions or maybe the people arriving from Szerémség. The name of Garay vineyard is also the result of the settlement in southern regions, which was the property of Garays before the Battle of Mohács.
The rise of the Tokaj Foothills as a wine region can be placed to the beginning of the XVI. century. But how long this region has been called this way is another question. At first the Foothills expression was wide-spread in Hungary. Since the XVII. century the word Tokaj appears before Foothills repeatedly. Probably its castle and important strategic position took the region out of the other region of Foothills because regarding its winemaking and commercial roles Tokaj did not stand out above Tarcal, Tállya or Mád. Although Rákóczy Ferenc II. destroyed the 'strength' at the confluence of Bodrog and Tisza rivers because of startegic consideration. The word Tokaj adhered to Foothills whilst Tarcal was also replaced. If we wanted to draw Tokaj Foothills round Tokaj Hill, Sátor Hill in Sátoraljaújhely and Sátor Hill in Abaújszántó would belong to here.
However, the description has a fault: the three hills indicate the corners of Tokaj Foothills - determined in the royal rescript of 1737 - not the boarders of the wine region today. Although, the almost 260 year-old order created wine-region the first wine region or district of production - we can also say Tokaj Foothills became the first appellation conrtólée in the world. But the boarders of Tokaj Foothills changed before and after that time as well. When Foothills started to develop in the XVI. century, the settlements began struggling in order to maintain their association with the wine region. The southern and south-eastern parts of Zemplén Mount separated from the north-west parts since the beginnings.
Significant settlements of today's wine region had to fight to maintain the association with the Foothills. So different definitions remained from different ages. Once Bodrogolaszi, Sárospatak and the northern parts, other times Szerencs and the western parts were denied the Foothills classifiction. The corporations and doctors - who revised each other and attempted sketching - always admitted that Abaújszántó, Tállya, Mád, Mezozombor, Tarcal, Tokaj, Bodrogkeresztúr, Erdobénye, Olaszliszke and Tolcsva belonged to Foothills. Today Tokaj Foothills is suitable for the plantation of almost 7000 hectares of first, and second class grapes, but only 5000 hectares are cultivated. 27 settlements belong to the closed wine region, practically every village and town whose names ever emerged in the history of Foothills. The exceptions are those settlements which were merged into their neighbours, or which were attached to Czechoslovakia (Kistoronya and Szoloske).
The Wine Culture
Tokaj is first mentioned in the deed of foundation of 1067 of Százd abbey in the XI. century. Later the Illustrated Chronicle - written in the XIV. century - wrote about the crossing of Salamon on the Tisza in Tokaj. The settlement could be important crossing in the age of Arpad. We do not know exactly when Földvára was built, somewhere in the XII. century, but the Mongol invasion of Hungary destroyed it. We can read about a castle built at the confluence of Bodrog and Tisza rivers in the original document of 1290. It was possibly destroyed because in the XIV. century a stone castle at Tokaj is mentioned.
The name of Tokaj is mentioned initially in the document of 1353. At that time people dealt with wine-growing ang winemaking at Foothills. Since 1450 the region was in the possession of the Hunyadi family and then the Szapolyai family was the pledge holder. In October, 1526 the national party - with the leading of Szapolyai János - started towards Buda in order to obtain the crown. However, after his coronation, he lost the domain and new period began in the history of the region. In 1556, after the king, John Sigismund, was called back to Transylvania; Tokaj Foothills became royal domain and the medieval castle was reinforced. The wine region of Foothills became more and more profitable till the end of the century. Later the castle was owned by Bethlen Gábor, from where the Rákóczy family redeemed him and the reinforcement of the castel began. In the XVII. century during the revolt of Foothills several people wanted to obtain the rule, which was increasing income. The castle was occupied by Kuruts in 1703, and was destroyed in 1705. Tokaj was ruled by the Szepesi clan since that time.
Till the first half of the XVII. century the population of the settlement grew, more than 20 noble mansions were drawn up. The town had a peaceful period since that time and became a market cnter, furthermore it got the title of "Priviliged Tisza-Tokaj Town" . The XVII.-XVIII. century period was the golden age of the wine commerce of Foothills. Polish and Russian buyers swarmed in to the town, which meant new markets and income to the world famous Tokaj wine. Tokaj was an important spot of the Rákóczy War of Independence and the crossing of Tokaj had a strategic and military importance. At the end of the 1848s , after the double defeat of Kassa the crossing of Tokaj was really important for the Austrian troops. In July, 1849, the troops of Görgey crossed on the bridge of Tokaj towards the territory east of the river Tisza.
After the Compromise the economic recovery started and reached its culmination by 1910, more quarries produced. The achievement of burgeoes status began but it was broken by the World War. In 1917 territories were encolsed from Foothills, which reduced its importance. In 1919 the leaders reorganized the local administrative system and wanted to connect the town to Szabolcs County, but there was no possibility. The vineyards of Foothills suffered serious frost damage in 1929, from which it recovered in the 1940's. In March 1944, Tokaj was occupied by Germans and the front-line came closer and closer. It reached the town in November. That time Russian troops marced into the town.
After World War II. the development of Tokaj fell back, its chances could not be exploited. Because of political reasons its central role in wine commerce also changed and the new centre was Sátoraljaújhely. The facts that Tokaj was situated on the boarder of the county and was deprived of its main areas hendered its developement. Fortunately, the town preserved its historical values and its beautiful provincial nature. In 1986 it got back the designation as a town, which it had lost during the previous years. The town started to bloom again and new period started for people. Up to now intensive improvements have occured which resulted in spectacular architectural and infrastructural development. The dramatic results obtained so far were acknowledged by a HILD medal in 1997 and recently an old dream came true: Tokaj Foothills was declared as part of the World Inheritance. So this way Foothills officially belongs to the most famous and protected areas of the world.
